Buying Used Motorola Radios

Start With the Exact Full Model Number

The most important thing to get from the seller is the full Motorola model number from the radio label. Not just “XPR 7550e.” Not just “UHF.” Not just “MOTOTRBO.” You want the full model number, such as something like AAH56RDN9RA1AN, AAM28QPN9WA1AN, or similar.

That long part number is where the real details live. It can tell you things like:

• VHF, UHF, 700/800, or 800/900 MHz

• The exact UHF band split

• Power range

• Display/keypad version

• Whether the unit is “Capable” or “Enabled”

• Sometimes what feature package it was originally sold with

If the eBay listing does not show the label clearly, ask the seller for a clear photo of the model tag under the battery or on the chassis. If they will not provide it, assume you do not know what you are buying.

Once you have the full model number, search that exact number on Google. This is one of the best tricks for buying Motorola gear online. Search the full part number in quotes if needed. Sites like Haloid Solutions / Haloid Radios, RadioDepot, RFC Wireless, Sunny Communications, and other radio dealers often have pages that decode model numbers, show the frequency range, and list whether that exact model is VHF, UHF1, UHF2, enabled, capable, high power, low power, etc.

This is especially useful when the eBay seller does not know radios very well. The seller may write “UHF” in the title, but a dealer listing for the exact same model number may reveal that it is UHF2, 450–512 MHz, which may not cover what you need.

“UHF” Is Not Specific Enough

One of the biggest mistakes is buying a radio just because the listing says “UHF.”

UHF Motorola radios often come in different band splits. For example, an XPR 5550e mobile may be listed as UHF1 403–470 MHz or UHF2 450–512 MHz depending on the model number. RadioDepot’s XPR 5550e listing shows separate model numbers for UHF1 and UHF2 versions, including UHF1 403–470 MHz and UHF2 450–512 MHz variants.

That matters.

For amateur 70 cm use, especially around 420–450 MHz, a UHF2 radio that starts at 450 MHz may not be what you want. For GMRS around 462/467 MHz, UHF2 may be fine, but UHF1 may also cover it depending on the radio. For commercial UHF, it depends entirely on your licensed frequencies.

Never assume. Verify the actual split.

R1 vs R2: Do Not Guess

You will often see terms like R1 and R2 in used Motorola listings. In general, these refer to different RF band splits, but the exact meaning depends on the radio family.

For many UHF Motorola radios, R1 is the lower UHF split and R2 is the higher UHF split. That does not mean the numbers are universal across every model. You still need to verify the actual frequency range.

For example, Haloid lists some Motorola repeater gear with R1/R2-style descriptions, such as an MTR2000 UHF R1 repeater in the 435–470 MHz range and an XPR8400 UHF R2 repeater listed as 450–527 MHz.

That is why the safest rule is:

R1/R2 is a clue, not proof. The actual frequency range is what matters.

For ham use, R1-style lower UHF splits are often more desirable because they are more likely to cover the 70 cm amateur band. But do not buy based on the R1/R2 label alone. Buy based on the verified frequency range of the exact model number.

“Capable” vs “Enabled”

Motorola listings may use words like “Capable” and “Enabled.” These are not just marketing fluff.

A “Capable” radio generally means the hardware can support certain features, but those features may not be active unless licensed, upgraded, or ordered that way. An “Enabled” radio generally means those features are already active or included in that model package.

For example, dealer listings for the XPR 7550e show separate model numbers for UHF Capable and UHF Enabled versions. The same listing notes that some trunking/system technologies, such as Connect Plus and Capacity Max, apply to the enabled version.

RadioDepot’s XPR 5550e listing also distinguishes Capable and Enabled versions and notes that the enabled version includes features such as Wi-Fi, Connect Plus, and Capacity Max standard.

For normal ham analog or basic DMR conventional use, you may not care about Connect Plus, Capacity Max, Wi-Fi, or other commercial features. But you should still understand what you are buying. Do not pay “enabled” prices for a “capable” radio unless the missing features do not matter to you.

Verify Analog and Digital Support

Some Motorola radios are analog-only. Some are digital-capable but need entitlement or licensing. Some MOTOTRBO radios support both analog FM and DMR. Some commercial/business models may have limitations depending on how they were originally sold.

Before buying, make sure the radio actually supports the mode you intend to use:

• Analog FM conventional

• DMR conventional

• Repeater operation

• Talkaround/simplex

• Wideband or narrowband, where legally allowed

• The channel capacity you need

• Front panel programming, if applicable

• Display/keypad features, if you care about them

For ham use, basic analog and conventional DMR are usually the most relevant. Trunking features are usually unnecessary unless you are doing a specific commercial system project.

CPS Version Matters

Motorola radios are programmed with Motorola CPS, not CHIRP. That is a major difference from many hobby radios.

For MOTOTRBO radios, there is older/legacy CPS and CPS 2.0. A lot of hams still prefer or rely on older MOTOTRBO CPS versions, especially CPS 16, because many used XPR-series radios in the hobby world are older radios with older firmware and older codeplugs.

This is where you need to be careful. A radio that has been updated or last programmed in CPS 2.0 may not behave the way you expect if your setup is based around older CPS. Motorola’s own support documentation warns that CPS 2.0 cannot read radios with firmware older than R2.4, and Motorola release notes state that CPS 2.0 was introduced with MOTOTRBO system release R2.10.
The practical advice is simple:

If you are using older CPS, ask the seller what CPS version last read or wrote the radio.

Even better, ask them to test-read it with the older CPS version if they have it. If you specifically use CPS 16, ask whether the radio can be read in CPS 16 before you buy it.

Questions worth asking:

• What firmware version is currently on the radio?

• Was it last programmed with legacy CPS or CPS 2.0?

• Can it be read successfully in CPS?

• Is the codeplug password-protected?

• Is there a read/write password?

• Has the radio been upgraded to a CPS 2.0-only environment?

• Can the seller provide a screenshot of the CPS read screen with the serial number hidden if needed?

This is especially important if you are buying from a radio shop, government surplus seller, or commercial radio technician. They may keep everything on the newest CPS because that is what their business requires. That does not automatically make the radio bad, but it may create extra hassle for a ham who is intentionally running older CPS.

Make Sure It Is Not Password-Locked

A used Motorola radio can power on, transmit, receive, and still be a pain if you cannot read or write it.

Ask directly:

“Can this radio be read and written in CPS without a password?”

Some radios have codeplug passwords, read/write passwords, or other restrictions from a previous owner. If the seller says, “I don’t know,” treat that as a risk. If the seller says, “It powers on but I have not programmed it,” that does not prove it is usable.

A radio that cannot be read may still be recoverable in some cases, but do not pay normal working-radio prices for a mystery unit.

Verify Actual Functionality

“Powers on” is not the same thing as “works.”

For a portable, you want to verify:

• It powers on normally

• Display works

• Keypad/buttons work

• Volume and channel knobs work

• Speaker audio is clear

• Microphone audio is clear

• It receives on the correct band

• It transmits RF power

• It can be read and written in CPS

• Battery holds a reasonable charge

• Charging contacts are not damaged

• Antenna connector is not loose or broken

• Accessory connector is not damaged

• No signs of water intrusion or corrosion

For a mobile, verify:

• It powers on from 12 VDC

• Control head works

• Display and buttons work

• Speaker audio works

• Mic works

• RF output is within expected range

• Receive works

• Fan works, if applicable

• Power cable is included or obtainable

• Mounting bracket is included or obtainable

• Programming cable path is understood

• Accessory connector is intact

• No burnt smell, corrosion, or obvious PA abuse

For repeaters, be even more careful. A repeater listing should ideally include tested transmit power, receive sensitivity, duplexer status if included, firmware, band split, duty cycle expectations, and whether it was actually tested as a repeater, not just powered on.

Watch for Missing Accessories

A cheap radio is not always cheap once you add the missing pieces.

For portables, check whether it includes:

• Battery

• Charger

• Antenna

• Belt clip

• Dust cover

• Programming cable, if needed

• Speaker mic, if wanted

For mobiles, check for:

• Power cable

• Microphone

• Mounting bracket

• Control head cable, if remote mount

• Speaker

• Ignition sense wiring, if needed

• Programming cable

• Accessory plug

A $120 mobile radio without a mic, power cable, bracket, or programming cable may cost more in the end than a $180 radio that includes everything.

Be Careful With 800/900 MHz Radios

Some Motorola radios look like a great deal because they are 800/900 MHz units. They may be cheap because they are not useful for normal ham VHF/UHF or GMRS work.

An XPR 7550e, XPR 7580e, XTS, APX, or other Motorola radio may look physically similar across bands, but the band is not interchangeable. You cannot make an 800 MHz radio into a 440 MHz radio with programming.

Again, the model number matters.

For Ham Use, Think About Your Actual Frequencies

Before shopping, write down what you actually want to use:

• 2 meter ham: 144–148 MHz

• 70 cm ham: 420–450 MHz in the United States

• GMRS: 462/467 MHz

• Commercial UHF: whatever your license authorizes

• Public safety monitoring: receive-only, where legal

• DMR repeaters: local repeater input/output pairs and color codes

Then compare the radio’s exact frequency range to your actual frequencies.

Do not buy a radio just because someone on eBay wrote “ham radio” in the title. Many sellers use broad keywords to get views.

Check Completed Listings Before You Buy

Before you buy, search eBay sold/completed listings for the exact model number. This tells you what the radio actually sells for, not just what someone is asking.

Compare:

• Same model number

• Same band split

• Similar condition

• Same accessories

• Same enabled/capable status

• Tested vs untested

• Password-free vs unknown

• Battery/charger included vs radio-only

A fully tested, password-free radio from a knowledgeable seller is worth more than a mystery radio from a surplus seller. But if the price is high, make sure the listing actually proves the added value.

Red Flags

Be cautious if you see:

• “Powers on, no further testing”

• “Unable to test”

• No photo of the model label

• Seller refuses to provide model number

• “UHF” with no frequency range

• No mention of CPS readability

• No returns

• Stock photos only

• Heavy corrosion

• Missing knobs

• Cracked housing

• Broken antenna connector

• Password status unknown

• “As-is” with a high price

• Seller says “DMR” but the model may be analog-only

• Seller says “ham radio” but the band split does not cover ham frequencies

None of these automatically mean “do not buy,” but they do mean you should price it like a gamble.

Questions to Send the Seller

Here is a message you can copy and paste:

“Hi, I’m interested in this radio. Could you please confirm the full model number from the radio label, the frequency range/band split, firmware version if known, and whether it can be read and written in Motorola CPS without a password? Also, has it been tested for transmit and receive, or only powered on? Thanks.”

For MOTOTRBO radios, you can add:

“Do you know whether this radio was last programmed with legacy MOTOTRBO CPS, such as CPS 16, or with CPS 2.0? If you have older CPS available, are you able to confirm it reads successfully there?”

That one question can save you a lot of headache.

Final Advice

Buying used Motorola radios on eBay is absolutely worth it if you know what you are looking at. These radios are built well, sound great, and can be excellent performers for ham, GMRS, church, event, and technical use.

But do not shop by the title alone.

The safe buying process is:

1. Get the full model number.

2. Look up that exact model number on Google.

3. Verify the band split and frequency range.

4. Understand R1 vs R2 for that specific radio family.

5. Know whether it is Capable or Enabled.

6. Confirm it supports the mode you need.

7. Ask whether it can be read/written in CPS.

8. Check whether it was programmed with legacy CPS or CPS 2.0.

9. Verify transmit, receive, audio, buttons, display, and accessories.

10. Price unknowns like risks.

If the seller cannot answer basic questions, either walk away or bid accordingly. A good Motorola radio is a tool. A mystery Motorola radio is a project.